I wanted to share a (relatively long) conversation with you all about lime plaster over an earthen plaster (clay) base that is happening now on a straw bale list serve. This conversation sums up what I have been seeing and hearing about quite a lot in recent years: failures of lime over clay plasters. I hope everyone considering this option reads this conversatrion and changes their mind. Here’s the letter from Chris, the man whose plaster has failed. My response is below.
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Hi folks,
As I mentioned in an earlier post, I’m building a small straw bale home in western Oregon. Since I’m largely inexperienced in straw bale methods, I’ve used the literature (with the help from a builder or two) to help inform my decisions on specific details, and for our upcoming bale plastering, my consultations have led me to seriously consider the application of an initial earth discovery coat with a lime finish on the external walls.
This method is widely touted by just about every bale book I’ve gotten my hands on, as well as in articles in The Last Straw However, I’ve come across a few cases (mostly in the archives of this listserv) of plaster failures at the earth/lime interface. It seems like these have been the result of one or two factors: improper keying of the lime coat to the earth discovery coat, and differential swelling of the clay against the lime when the wall gets heavily saturated.
All this thinking about external wall renders has led me to wonder why there’s this disconnect between what the books/articles recommend and a the experiences of a few unfortunate folks. Are failures rare enough to still warrant the application of lime over clay? Or, as more buildings stand up to the test of time, will this technique be less enthusiastically endorsed? I’m curious to know what folks think.
We’re one of those failures. We live in a very wind-blown, cold wet in the winter location. After doing all our research, talking with experts, etc we decided on earthen covered by lime. Seemed ideal for a SB in our area. Since we have access to an entire dry lake made of clay this was perfect. We did multiple batches and put the samples on bales. Left them in the elements. Recorded our results. Chose the best. Were meticulous about our formula. AND all the walls done this way failed. We finally removed it all off two long protected walls and put up just lime. We have two more short walls to remove and redo with lime. It’s HARD when you think you are finally done with your house to go in and rip it apart again!
What we discovered:
Earthen plaster doesn’t stick to chicken wire over wood.
We have one hybrid 2×6 wall. In some places the plasters stuck WELL and when we started removing it the lime pulled huge chunks of earthen with it. In others- no bond at all. Not sure why. They were scored the same, same formulas, and in some cases were immediately adjacent to each other. From our observations of the bonded sections they seemed to have somewhat more fiber (we used Pre Processed Straw- horse manure!). Perhaps the manure had different PH? consistency? variations on fiber? The PH of the clay might be very important as alkaline tends to more salt and that seems to interfere with bonding
Lime is easier.
No one might say lime is easier to work with but we like it. We like working with it and we like the way it functions after drying. Of course it took me quite a few failed attempts to LEARN lime!! We had HIGH hopes for earthen covered by lime but now wish we’d never done it. IF we had to do it again we would try to standardize EVERYTHING. We would test the clay and we would test each batch of manure (or just use straw and test it!) AND each final batch of plaster. The varirables in earthen just seem to be quite broad and not as easily controlled as using lime plaster.
For those of you SB experts- please dont’ flame me. I KNOW there are probably many things we did wrong- but just like most owner/builders and most SB builders, thats the name of the game. You shouldn’t have an entire system fail when you are attempting to do everything right after research. THAT learning curve is too expensive. This is our experience, and simply our opinion. Perhaps it will help someone else avoid the pitfalls we fell into and discover a way to make earthen/lime work well!!
-Chris
Here is my response to Chris and the group:
Hi Chris. First of all, I’m very sorry to hear of your plaster failure. That must be very disappointing and emotionally taxing.
About the Author
Andrew Morison is a specialist in straw bale and green construction. He has shown thousands of people how to build their own straw bale projects through his comprehensive series of instructional straw bale, concrete foundation, and plastering DVDs, as well as his hands on workshops. You can check these out at www.StrawBale.com/store.
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August 14th, 2012 at 10:51 am
I am verz grateful for all the useful information that is provided on this site. We plastered our walls in a similar way (clay and then lime plaster) and I will let you know if something similar happens to us (hopefully not as I’m sure it’s very stressing so I´m very sorry to hear about Chris’experience.
I am wondering now…I haven´t seen a discussion on this anywhere in this web site- tadelakt on clay plaster in kitchen and bathroom? As I understand tadelakt is a type of lime as well so I guess it wouldn´t work very well?
Thanks, Maja
August 14th, 2012 at 11:58 am
Hi Maja. I don’t have any experience with Tadelakt although I have seen its beauty. I would suggest you check on their websites for technical data and see if they have any information. Sorry I can’t be more helpful on that one.
August 14th, 2012 at 6:37 pm
I would be curious to know if there have been any issues with lime plaster applications over cob or unstabilized adobe? Is lime compatible with clay or not? Should it be assumed that lime is the binder in every layer of exterior plaster and save the clay for interior walls? I am also curious to know how natural binders as well as synthetic binders affect this lime to clay marriage? peace. susan
August 15th, 2012 at 9:02 am
I know that there are ways of doing it that have been successful; however, there are far more cases of failure that I have seen. I would stick to lime all the way on the exterior and save the earthen plaster for inside. After all, you don’t really need the weather resistance and durability of lime on the interior, even in wet areas like bathrooms. Earthen plaster do really well in those places if installed and finished properly. Not sure about synthetic binders as I don’t use them.
May 10th, 2013 at 2:48 pm
What about using lime plaster over interior walls made with this technique?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iSApSrd8VwY
Would it work?
Would it you would mix lime instead of clay with straw and than apply clay stucco over it?
May 11th, 2013 at 2:34 pm
HI Martin. I think this would be fine as is under a lime plaster. THere is so little clay in the light clay/straw mix, that I think the plaster would mostly be attached to the straw itself. To be safe, you could coat the wall in a lime slip prior to the first coat of lime plaster. That would help the adhesion/bonding of the plaster. I would be nervous about using lime as the slip on the light straw mix only because I wonder if it would become too dry and brittle prior to and even during installation. It might be fine; however, I have never done a lime slip with a light straw mixture. I’ve only used clay.