Rebecca is a Colorado native who currently resides in Carbondale, Colorado.  Her wide-ranging administrative support roles in education recently led her to a 9-12 experiential learning based boarding school in Carbondale, where she serves as the Executive Assistant to the Headmaster.

She became captivated with straw bale home construction after visiting and staying in one in southwest Colorado when she was in her 30’s.  Further interest developed after visiting a retreat center in California and doing volunteer work on a structure for four days.

Rebecca stated, “For as long as I can remember, I’ve always been happiest and most fulfilled when working with my hands and building things; whether that was a garden, a stone patio, or a dinner for 20.  Being part of a workshop team will be my next step in putting the puzzle pieces together for a new career I’m building for myself.  The opportunity could not have come at a better time, and I’m thrilled to be this month’s winner.”

CONGRATULATIONS REBECCA! WE ARE SO EXCITED TO GET TO MEET YOU AT A WORKSHOP!

]]> http://www.strawbale.com/may-free-workshop-winner/feed/ 0 http://www.strawbale.com/straw-bale-and-steel-framing/ http://www.strawbale.com/straw-bale-and-steel-framing/#comments Sat, 11 May 2013 23:37:29 +0000 Andrew http://www.strawbale.com/?p=6280 If you have ever wondered why you don’t see a lot of steel framed straw bale homes, the answer can be summed up in one word: condensation. That does not mean that a bale house cannot be built with steel framing; however, it does mean that special care must be taken to protect the bales from condensation. I have outlined the easiest way to accomplish this below.

First, let’s discuss why someone might choose to use steel in the first place. One major reason that people opt for steel is the overall strength of the material. If the structure you are building requires large open spaces, and thus large spans for the framing material, steel may be a good choice for you. Take a look at the photo and try to get a sense of scale. When you compare the overall space to the size of the people in the photo, you can start to see how large of a span the rafters are actually dealing with. Spanning that same distance with wood would require either much larger timbers or more of them. Either way, the material use factor of the structure would have to be considered.

Another reason for using steel framing also comes from a sense of scale; however, this time it is a small scale reason: termites. If you live in an area rich in termites, you probably don’t want to build with wood. If you do, you will have to work with treated wood and who knows what the health implications of that are (I mean really…who knows?). By using steel, you can eliminate the risk of termites ruining the structural elements of your building. Don’t worry, termites don’t seem to be terribly interested in straw as a food source. That said, I would still recommend that you build with the intention of keeping the termites out nonetheless.

As is the case with any material, there are ups and downs to using steel. One negative detail that often surprises people is how poorly steel performs in fires. Sure, it doesn’t burn, but it does melt. What’s more, it melts at a lower temperature than thick wood beams will burn through. This means that steel buildings are at risk of collapse from heat even when the structure itself is flame resistant.

Steel comes from a finite material and so the question of sustainability must be addressed. Once the raw materials are all mined and the natural landscapes are all devastated by that process, we will have none left. This does not take recycling into account, which is a very important detail to consider; however, even with the best recycling programs, steel is still resource heavy on the planet. Although not always farmed in renewable ways, wood is a living, growing entity and can be replanted and harvested. In fact, many engineered lumber materials are made from small diameter, young trees that can be planted and harvested in a short time period.

If you have decided to work with a steel frame, you must have a plan for isolating the frame from the bales otherwise you risk damage to the straw from condensation that will form on the cold, steel frame. The easiest and best way I have discovered to accomplish this is to box out the frame so that it is completely isolated from the straw. As you can see in the picture above, the steel posts have been completely encapsulated in a wooden box. The inside of the box is insulated so that very little or no cold joint (thermal bridge) is created in the process. The wood box also provides additional nailing surface for the welded wire mesh. This is a simple way to create the boundary you need to provide a safe transition from bales to steel frame and one you can do by yourself with no special tools or materials.

If your plan to use steel is the result of termite considerations, then boxing out your steel frame in wooden panels is probably not your first choice. In this case, you can step up the cost of your insulation package and have the entire frame sprayed with an expansive foam insulation like Icynene. Make sure that you apply enough insulation to the frame to eliminate any cold steel from coming in contact with the straw. This won’t give you any additional nailing surfaces, and sprayed on insulation in large quantities is typically something you have to hire out. Nonetheless, it works well and when considered in the overall scheme of things, may be the perfect solution for you.

Whatever manner you choose to isolate the straw from the steel, choose it with one major concept in mind: eliminating the risk of the bales coming in contact with condensation formed on the surface of the cold steel frame. With that one goal in mind, I trust that you will create the perfect approach. In fact, perhaps some of you have already accomplished this on your own buildings. If so, I’d love to hear what solutions you came up with. Please join the conversation and share your experience in the comments section below.

As I sat one evening on the porch of my tiny cabin (it came with the property) I was amazed to discover that I was nervous about owning this beautiful piece of land. When I inquired within what that nervousness was about, I discovered that I was afraid of doing things wrong with the property (for example picking the wrong building site; making a bad decision about driveway location, etc.). I consciously reminded myself that I do in fact have what it takes to serve this land to it’s fullest capacity and that I will do everything that I can to do so. When fears arise during your own building process (and in life), it’s so important to meet those voices and fears head on, to listen to them, and then to gently remind yourself of the truth. Find your center of knowing and make choices from that place. You have all the answers you need.

If you’ve ever heard the phrase “It’s always something”, then you may already have had an experience with a building or zoning department in the past. It’s not unheard of to be asked to jump through dozens of hoops before permits are granted. As much as this is normal, it is also very frustrating; however, that frustration can often be minimized. I suggest you contact the department(s) in charge of your jurisdiction by phone and do so anonymously at first. Call in the morning, first thing, so you can actually talk to someone. Tell them your plans and see what advice they have for you. You may be surprised to hear that there are restrictions on things you never imagined, like storing building materials on site in advance of building. By speaking anonymously, you can get the details of such restrictions and then be sure that when you approach the office officially, you know what to say in order to expedite your process as best you can.

As you move through the process, as I did last week, much will come out for you that you may not have anticipated. I’m speaking more about your emotional experience than any code implications. I found myself moved to tears several times last week. Sometimes due to the beauty of our land and knowing that it is “ours” for as long as we can steward it. Sometimes by fear of “doing it wrong.” But mostly, I was moved by knowing that I have an opportunity to provide something beautiful for my family. We are on the path to creating our own dream, our forever home. I am fully invested in that experience, whatever it brings. I wish you that same joyous adventure.

Do you have any words of wisdom or stories to share about your own homesteading process? We’d love to hear them! Leave a Comment below.

Failure #1: Mixing earthen and lime plasters on a wall surface. This is perhaps the most common mistake that I see over and over again. People choosing to use earthen plaster for the scratch and brown coats and a final, “durability coat” of lime. The problem here is that what you have is stronger plaster over weaker plaster when in reality, you want it the other way around: weaker plaster over stronger plaster.

If you consider all plaster work over the last say…thousand years, one thing holds true no matter what material you use. The second coat has more sand in it than the first coat and the third has more than the second. That makes the coats “weaker” as they move away from the wall. This is important because plaster moves, as do homes. If the weaker plaster beneath a strong lime finish coat can move more than the finish coat, you will ultimately get delamination between the two coats which will lead to eventual plaster failure. By laying weaker plaster over a stronger finish coat, it will always be able to move at least as much as the coat beneath it. This keeps the plasters well bonded and eliminates the high risks seen in the opposite application.

Failure #2: Trapping moisture in the wall. There are two main ways to create this problem. The first is to use a plaster than does not breathe well. For some reason, the use of cement in plaster is still celebrated by some builders. I do not understand this at all. We know that cement based plasters don’t breathe well and we know they are more prone to cracking than lime or earthen plasters. Sure they are stronger, but who cares when they will eventually cause your walls to rot. DO NOT USE CEMENT BASED PLASTERS on a bale home. That is as easy a fix as any.

The second way that moisture gets trapped in a wall is something I see all the time. People decide to use earthen plaster on the home’s interior and lime (or even worse: cement) on the exterior. Those materials all have a different rate of permeation. Let’s consider the most common application scenario: earthen on the interior and lime on the exterior. In any given hour, the earthen plaster will allow 10 units of moisture to enter the wall. During that same hour, the lime will allow 7 or 8 units to exit the wall. The remaining 2-3 units are stuck in the wall and will continue to build up in the straw, leading to moisture trapping issues which are the cause of bale decay.

I very often hear people complain about lime plaster being a bad choice because “they have heard” lime will cause rot in the bales. NO, THAT IS NOT TRUE. What is causing the rot is the overloading of moisture in the wall due to the uneven plaster moisture rates. Yes, there will be rot behind a plaster coat made of lime in this situation, but the lime is not to blame, it is the combination of materials that were used.

To prevent this problem you can either use the same material on both sides of the wall, or you can build up the interior coat to slow down the rate of movement through the wall. This is my favorite option. In the same example, we could simply build the interior earthen coat to 2” and leave the exterior lime coat at 1 1/4”. The added thickness on the interior will slow down the moisture movement through the wall such that the lime can release as much as the earthen will allow to enter in the same time period. Simple fix.

Again, remember that plaster plays a hugely important part of your home. It is not simply a coat of paint over siding. It is the protection your bales need, the beauty your neighbors see, and sometimes part of the structural system that holds your house up day after day. Don’t skimp out in this. What is the point of spending a bunch of money on the framing, plumbing, windows, or any other part of the house only to skimp on the plaster and watch it fail in 2, 5, or 10 years? Ensure that you use high grade plaster materials and that you apply it properly.

If I’m coming across a little strong here, it’s because I care. Want I want is to empower you to make the right decisions so that you don’t have to experience these falures yourself.

Remember the potential for beauty around you, no matter where you live. Give back to this planet that gives so much for you. Strive to leave every environment you visit in better health than you found it.

Happy Earth Day everyone.

Andrew and Gabriella

Space in Remaining Classes:

June in Ashland, Oregon: 3

July in Taos, New Mexico:  FULL (You Can Sign Up For The Wait List)

August in Florence, Montana: 10+

September in Meadville, Pennsylvania: 10+

October outside Sacramento, California: 10+

Thank you much for the opportunity to attend your workshop.  I am a 24 year Army veteran and would be retired but for a break in service after Desert Storm.  My wife and I both went to Portland State University before I went back in the Army for the opportunity to fly helicopters.  We now have two daughters and are stationed at Joint Base Lewis-McChord.

People from different walks of life and different countries came together to work side by side. What we received was far more than an education in straw bale construction. We connected with each other and gained friendships that span across borders to Mexico and across the seas to the UK. We learned about different religions from Prespatarian Christians to Buddhists.  We worked side by side with young adults volunteering their service through Americorps, as well as with retired men and women, architects, builders, and many other individuals: again, all inspired by a common goal.

This week was inspiring, fun, and full of accomplishments. I can’t think of a better way to start the workshop season! I want to personally thank each participant, cook, organizer, child, and anyone else who was a part of this week for making my first trip to Arkansas so memorable. It was an honor to be part of this community and such a wonderful cause: teaching sustainability to our youth and adults. This lesson is so very needed in our time.

To visit Ferncliff Camps Facebook page to see more photos of this workshop and find out more about this amazing organization, please click here.

Kitchen Sink: In most homes in the United States (and I imagine around the world) the kitchen sink is located on an exterior wall with a window above it. This certainly makes the task of washing dishes more enjoyable (the view) but it does pose some problems to the mantra “keep your plumbing out of your bales.” It’s easy to bring the water up through the floor and into the base cabinets, and it is equally as easy to drop the waste line down through the cabinet floor. What become the big issues are venting, which is typically run vertically through the wall and out of the roof, keeping the plaster flat and square enough for cabinets and counters, and the depth of the bale wall itself. Although vents don’t necessarily contain water, they can still cause problems in bale walls in certain situations (roof leaks that drip down the pipe for example) and are best kept out of the bales.

For some, the wall depth won’t matter, but for others it is uncomfortable. The reason being that anything placed on the window sill will be hard to reach and the window itself is hard to open because it is so far away. Keep in mind that standard cabinets are 24″ deep, then add the 18+ inches of wall depth and you can see what I mean. Having the window more accessible and the space behind the sink shallower is more convenient for most people. The need for square and flat walls is nowhere as prevalent in a bale house as behind the cabinetry. If the walls are wavy or out of square, the installation of the cabinets and counter will be more difficult, and in some situations, not even possible (depending on the material choices). All of these situations can be addressed with the same solution, a framed wall section behind the sink.

The framed out area allows you to run all of your plumbing separate from the bales, thus eliminating the risk of water damage. It also provides for a flat and square installation with lots of nailing space for hanging your cabinets. Finally, it can be framed out thinner than the surrounding bale walls so that the window is more accessible and the space behind the sink is more shallow, allowing for useable space that was otherwise out of reach.

If you believe that you can create a flat and square wall for the cabinets within the bales and plaster and the depth of the wall doesn’t bother you, then the easiest thing is to either wet vent the kitchen sink (running the vent down through the floor or cabinets and then up through an interior framed partition wall) or simply create a water isolation box for the vent line within the bales. Both of these approaches are faster than framing an entire section of wall; however, be sure to check with your codes about the legality of wet venting and always keep the overall project quality, timeline and budget in focus when making your decisions so that you can choose the best option for your kitchen sink.

Showers and Tubs: The most common design, especially when considering a second bathroom in a home, is to have a tub/shower unit at the end of a narrow bathroom. This places the wettest part of the entire house in direct contact with the bales. That’s not a very good idea. If you cannot redesign your bathroom to eliminate this situation, then I strongly recommend the use of water isolation walls on either side of the tub/shower unit as shown in the diagram (click to see a full size version). This creates a safe detail for the bathroom and also increases the floor space in the bathroom or can allow you to move an interior wall to increase general home square footage.

Hose Bibs in Exterior Walls: Most jurisdictions require at least one exterior hose bib (faucet) on the house and that the bib is installed in the walls of the house as opposed to in the ground outside of the house. This means that it will be installed directly into the bales unless you plan for something different. And plan you should. I find that the best and most effective way of isolating the hose bibs from the bales is to build water isolation boxes. They can be created to fit within the wall such that the surrounding bales simply install next to and on top of the boxes with little interruption. Furthermore, once the walls are plastered, the existence of the boxes will no longer be noticeable to anyone. In fact, the only way that you will know they are there is from memory and your photos (of course you will photo all of the details of your home construction for later use…right? Right.) Check out the diagram for the details of how the boxes are built. Once again, you can click on the diagram to make it bigger.

There are a ton of details that go into the construction of any home, and that list of details is bigger and certainly less common-place within a straw bale home than it is in conventional construction. Be sure to consider every detail you can think of before you start building. The time to address the details is during the design process. After all, making changes on paper is much easier and far less expensive than making them in the field. To get clear on what you should be considering, check out my book A Modern Look at Straw Bale Construction. It covers all of the information discussed here plus everything from foundations to wall and roof systems and all the construction details in between. No need for you to try and reinvent the straw bale wheel when all the details are laid out for you in a clear and descriptive manner.

Happy Baling!

This is a one-of-a-kind Applegate Valley Retreat located 15 minutes outside of Southern Oregon’s national historic landmark town of Jacksonville. It’s a 90 acre paradise with multiple dwellings which offer a variety of living possibilities. The remodeled main home comes with complete separate living on each level of over 1700 sq.ft.

The remodeled single level 3 bedroom caretaker’s home on a knoll setting has incredible views of the pastures to the North and mountains to the South (and North for that matter). This used to be our house when we lived on the land and I must say that the views are incredible. There is also a detached 3 car garage with a private studio and bathroom down by the horse pastures.

There’s even a straw bale village with 3 separate sleeping units, sauna/bath house & central kitchen. These cabins were all built by workshop participants over the years. They are truly special and they can be and have been used as rental cabins to generate extra income for the property owner. There is also a cute mobile cottage (fully remodeled in recent years and quite charming) with a private deck overlooking a small meadow. Up above our old house there are two more structures in a private treed setting that open to another private pasture. One is a load bearing straw bale and the other, known as the Strawberry House (when my kids were little, they thought I was saying “strawberry” when I said straw bale), was originally straw and then remodeled to the structure you see today.

This property offers approx. 20 acres of pasture with irrigation rights, 3 large ponds; one designated as an irrigation pond which is fed by a natural creek, spring and well. There is a beautiful 4 stall horse barn with its own living quarters, tack room, feed stall, hot and cold washing facility, horse shower, and drying rack. The floor is fully matted and there is a large, open-air, fenced riding arena off to the side.

There’s more… A custom greenhouse, fenced organic gardens (have been organic for over 13 years), apple orchards, rose garden, irrigated and fenced horse pastures, and irrigated landscaping throughout the property. There is even a waterfall to visit on one of your many hikes or rides through this secluded heaven. The whole property is surrounded by thousands of acres of BLM land and the adventures and explorations are endless from your back door.

As much as it makes me sad to see this property leave the family, I have hope that it will inspire someone else and hold them with the same love it has offered us. If that person is you, please contact Jeanne Schattler (a friend of ours who is the listing agent…actually, I think she was the first friend we ever made when we moved to Southern Oregon, so it is somewhat full circle for her to be selling the land for us) through her website. You can see lots more photos of the property there as well.

If you’re the philanthropic type, feel free to buy the property in my daughter’s name and make her the happiest 13 year old girl in the world! I had to throw that in there!

Click here to visit the Real Estate Agent’s page.