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	<title>Comments on: Connecting a Straw Bale Addition to an Existing House</title>
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	<link>http://www.strawbale.com/straw_bale_addition</link>
	<description>The World's Leader in Straw Bale Education</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Mon, 06 Feb 2012 18:14:41 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>By: Andrew</title>
		<link>http://www.strawbale.com/straw_bale_addition/comment-page-1#comment-26823</link>
		<dc:creator>Andrew</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 14 Nov 2009 05:56:08 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://208.109.173.184/straw_bale_addition/#comment-26823</guid>
		<description>It&#039;s hard to wrap a building without running into the &quot;extras&quot; as mentioned here.  You might be able to do it with a small rubble trench foundation and &quot;mini-roofs&quot; built to tuck in under the existing roof and supported on the outer edge with posts to small concrete piers.  Just a thought.  Good luck.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>It&#8217;s hard to wrap a building without running into the &#8220;extras&#8221; as mentioned here.  You might be able to do it with a small rubble trench foundation and &#8220;mini-roofs&#8221; built to tuck in under the existing roof and supported on the outer edge with posts to small concrete piers.  Just a thought.  Good luck.</p>
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		<title>By: Chris</title>
		<link>http://www.strawbale.com/straw_bale_addition/comment-page-1#comment-26819</link>
		<dc:creator>Chris</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 14 Nov 2009 04:14:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://208.109.173.184/straw_bale_addition/#comment-26819</guid>
		<description>A nice little article,
I am planning to do just that -add an addition to my mobile home.  Thanks for being so specific!
One word of caution reg&#039;d wood heat in a mobile home -it may not be tolerated by your insurance.  I was strongly advised against it by my insurance agent, the boost in premiums (if I could even find and insurer) would have covered half my gas bill!!
I was also thinking of &#039;outsulating&#039; the existing mobile home with straw bale, but the extra work on the roof and foundation has discouraged me from that.  Can you think of an easier way to &#039;outsulate&#039; the existing structure?

Thanks again, cheers!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>A nice little article,<br />
I am planning to do just that -add an addition to my mobile home.  Thanks for being so specific!<br />
One word of caution reg&#8217;d wood heat in a mobile home -it may not be tolerated by your insurance.  I was strongly advised against it by my insurance agent, the boost in premiums (if I could even find and insurer) would have covered half my gas bill!!<br />
I was also thinking of &#8216;outsulating&#8217; the existing mobile home with straw bale, but the extra work on the roof and foundation has discouraged me from that.  Can you think of an easier way to &#8216;outsulate&#8217; the existing structure?</p>
<p>Thanks again, cheers!</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: andrew</title>
		<link>http://www.strawbale.com/straw_bale_addition/comment-page-1#comment-23</link>
		<dc:creator>andrew</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 06 Sep 2007 20:59:07 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://208.109.173.184/straw_bale_addition/#comment-23</guid>
		<description>At 7:28 AM, Andrew Morrison said...

    Dale,
    Thanks for the question. This sounds like a good idea. Here&#039;s my feedback: If I read your post right, your roof on the new addition will be 12&#039; from the trailer and the addition is also slated at 12&#039;. The addition will need a roof overhang so the entire roof from trailer to end needs to be at least 14&#039; yielding a 2&#039; overhang on the bale addition.
    The floor joists need to carry the weight of the bales. I suggest you look in your code book and see what the requirements are for an additional 40 pounds per square foot of dead load on the floor system. That is a good number to consider for bale construction. Remember, bales are heavy. I think 2x8 floor joists will not be strong enough if spaced at standard intervals. I usually go with 11 7/8 engineered joists 24&quot; on center at a minimum. If you need to stay at 8&quot; due to the height considerations you mentioned, you will have to shrink the spacing to say 12&quot; or double the joists and stick to 16&quot; centers. Again, the code book for your location will give you better direction on this. I am not an engineer, so you need to confirm whatever you decide to do with an inspector or an engineer to be safe, but at a minimum, I suggest you follow the recommendations above. Good luck and happy baling.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>At 7:28 AM, Andrew Morrison said&#8230;</p>
<p>    Dale,<br />
    Thanks for the question. This sounds like a good idea. Here&#8217;s my feedback: If I read your post right, your roof on the new addition will be 12&#8242; from the trailer and the addition is also slated at 12&#8242;. The addition will need a roof overhang so the entire roof from trailer to end needs to be at least 14&#8242; yielding a 2&#8242; overhang on the bale addition.<br />
    The floor joists need to carry the weight of the bales. I suggest you look in your code book and see what the requirements are for an additional 40 pounds per square foot of dead load on the floor system. That is a good number to consider for bale construction. Remember, bales are heavy. I think 2&#215;8 floor joists will not be strong enough if spaced at standard intervals. I usually go with 11 7/8 engineered joists 24&#8243; on center at a minimum. If you need to stay at 8&#8243; due to the height considerations you mentioned, you will have to shrink the spacing to say 12&#8243; or double the joists and stick to 16&#8243; centers. Again, the code book for your location will give you better direction on this. I am not an engineer, so you need to confirm whatever you decide to do with an inspector or an engineer to be safe, but at a minimum, I suggest you follow the recommendations above. Good luck and happy baling.</p>
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		<title>By: dale basinger</title>
		<link>http://www.strawbale.com/straw_bale_addition/comment-page-1#comment-22</link>
		<dc:creator>dale basinger</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 06 Sep 2007 20:58:33 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://208.109.173.184/straw_bale_addition/#comment-22</guid>
		<description>At 7:00 AM, Dale Basinger said...

    Hello,

    I will tell you what I am doing and then ask your advice and opinion. I have a single wide mobile home, and I am putting a roof over it and an addition for two bedrooms. The mobile is 14 x 68, the roof will cover it and 12 feet along the entire length. The addition will only be 12 x 28, the rest of the area under the roof will just be open. I will support the roof with 26 treated 4x4s. I want to use strawbale for the addition, but need the floor to be even with the floor of the mobile, as I will only be heating with a wood stove in the center of the mobile, and a lower floor in the addition would not heat well by convection. If I frame up the floor of the addition, 2x10 band joists with 2x8 floor joists, would this be adequate for strawbale walls? Thank you for your time, Dale Basinger.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>At 7:00 AM, Dale Basinger said&#8230;</p>
<p>    Hello,</p>
<p>    I will tell you what I am doing and then ask your advice and opinion. I have a single wide mobile home, and I am putting a roof over it and an addition for two bedrooms. The mobile is 14 x 68, the roof will cover it and 12 feet along the entire length. The addition will only be 12 x 28, the rest of the area under the roof will just be open. I will support the roof with 26 treated 4x4s. I want to use strawbale for the addition, but need the floor to be even with the floor of the mobile, as I will only be heating with a wood stove in the center of the mobile, and a lower floor in the addition would not heat well by convection. If I frame up the floor of the addition, 2&#215;10 band joists with 2&#215;8 floor joists, would this be adequate for strawbale walls? Thank you for your time, Dale Basinger.</p>
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