Comments on: Snow Drifts and Straw Bale Constuction http://www.strawbale.com/winter-climates-and-straw-bale-construction The World's Leader in Straw Bale Education Wed, 08 Feb 2012 16:54:36 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.1 By: Andrew http://www.strawbale.com/winter-climates-and-straw-bale-construction/comment-page-1#comment-26416 Andrew Wed, 04 Nov 2009 16:15:52 +0000 http://www.strawbale.com/winter-climates-and-straw-bale-construction#comment-26416 Hi Steve. The pony wall will be equally as soundproof and efficient since it is built out of two frames, separated by a relatively large distance, the width of the bales. The only sound that will be transfered through the wall will move through the plywood deck that you build on top of the pony wall that supports the bales. You could actually build some separation into this as well if you wish to fully eliminate the sound's ability to travel. All you need is an inch of dead space. The insulation value comes from the fact that you can stuff the entire pony wall with insulation. At 14" wide, you can easily get R-44 worth of insulation in that space. Use 2 batts of R-22 insulation (that's only 11" wide) and so you could even add more if you like. The stoner or adobe could help; however, those materials have permeability issues as well. In other words, the mortar or in the case of the adobe, the bricks themselves, would suck moisture into the wall if it was "free moisture" laying against the walls. I think the best thing is to consider the use of landscaping to stop the drifts from being able to form against the walls in the first place. I, personally, like to use 2"x2" 14 gauge welded wire mesh for most of my homes. It provides extra strength for the plaster, helps with attaching cabinets and other "wall hanging things,"provides out of plane wall strength (replaces rebar or other types of bale pinning), helps create great shapes at corners, and provides additional shear strength to the building. Hi Steve. The pony wall will be equally as soundproof and efficient since it is built out of two frames, separated by a relatively large distance, the width of the bales. The only sound that will be transfered through the wall will move through the plywood deck that you build on top of the pony wall that supports the bales. You could actually build some separation into this as well if you wish to fully eliminate the sound’s ability to travel. All you need is an inch of dead space.

The insulation value comes from the fact that you can stuff the entire pony wall with insulation. At 14″ wide, you can easily get R-44 worth of insulation in that space. Use 2 batts of R-22 insulation (that’s only 11″ wide) and so you could even add more if you like.

The stoner or adobe could help; however, those materials have permeability issues as well. In other words, the mortar or in the case of the adobe, the bricks themselves, would suck moisture into the wall if it was “free moisture” laying against the walls. I think the best thing is to consider the use of landscaping to stop the drifts from being able to form against the walls in the first place.

I, personally, like to use 2″x2″ 14 gauge welded wire mesh for most of my homes. It provides extra strength for the plaster, helps with attaching cabinets and other “wall hanging things,”provides out of plane wall strength (replaces rebar or other types of bale pinning), helps create great shapes at corners, and provides additional shear strength to the building.

]]> By: Steve http://www.strawbale.com/winter-climates-and-straw-bale-construction/comment-page-1#comment-26179 Steve Thu, 29 Oct 2009 17:53:21 +0000 http://www.strawbale.com/winter-climates-and-straw-bale-construction#comment-26179 My question relates to the current snowdrift dialog. I also live in colorado, and am seriously considering the straw bale method of construction. To avoid snow drift related wall damage, making the foundation 12" above grade, and building the roof with 30" overhangs or greater, seems to make a lot of sense. I like the ponywall idea as well, but I'm wondering what options I might have, to keep this modification from reducing the energy efficiency of my future home, as well as preventing this strategy from compromising the sound proofing perks of traditional straw bale construction. I also have 2 more questions: 1. Would building a 3 - 4 foot wall of stone or adobe brick onto the perimeter of the foundation and then adding straw bales solve the problem? 2. Over the long haul, is it better to cover all the surfaces of the house in metal lathe before plastering, or does the texture of the bales provide long term protection from major cracking in exterior plaster coatings? My question relates to the current snowdrift dialog. I also live in colorado, and am seriously considering the straw bale method of construction. To avoid snow drift related wall damage, making the foundation 12″ above grade, and building the roof with 30″ overhangs or greater, seems to make a lot of sense. I like the ponywall idea as well, but I’m wondering what options I might have, to keep this modification from reducing the energy efficiency of my future home, as well as preventing this strategy from compromising the sound proofing perks of traditional straw bale construction. I also have 2 more questions: 1. Would building a 3 – 4 foot wall of stone or adobe brick onto the perimeter of the foundation and then adding straw bales solve the problem? 2. Over the long haul, is it better to cover all the surfaces of the house in metal lathe before plastering, or does the texture of the bales provide long term protection from major cracking in exterior plaster coatings?

]]> By: Олег http://www.strawbale.com/winter-climates-and-straw-bale-construction/comment-page-1#comment-5262 Олег Thu, 02 Oct 2008 15:21:33 +0000 http://www.strawbale.com/winter-climates-and-straw-bale-construction#comment-5262 Тема старая конечно же, но прочитал с удовольствием :) Russian to English rough translation: "Theme old certainly, but has read through with pleasure:)" Тема старая конечно же, но прочитал с удовольствием :)

Russian to English rough translation: “Theme old certainly, but has read through with pleasure:)”

]]> By: Andrew http://www.strawbale.com/winter-climates-and-straw-bale-construction/comment-page-1#comment-1623 Andrew Mon, 07 Apr 2008 05:44:30 +0000 http://www.strawbale.com/winter-climates-and-straw-bale-construction#comment-1623 On wood decks, you do not have to use the pressure treated wood. In fact, you can use a thin layer of composite decking under your toe ups on concrete and then use regular wood. Not all jurisdictions allow this so you will need to ask your building department. On wood decks, you do not have to use the pressure treated wood. In fact, you can use a thin layer of composite decking under your toe ups on concrete and then use regular wood. Not all jurisdictions allow this so you will need to ask your building department.

]]> By: Todd http://www.strawbale.com/winter-climates-and-straw-bale-construction/comment-page-1#comment-1621 Todd Mon, 07 Apr 2008 01:46:12 +0000 http://www.strawbale.com/winter-climates-and-straw-bale-construction#comment-1621 Andrew, A toe-up question, although not related to snow drifts. I'd like to stay away from the use of pressure treated wood in my walls (or use ACQ if necessary). If a straw bale wall is being built over a crawl space that has a standard wood joist floor (2x12s or BCIs) w/ sheeting, do toe ups still need to be added, and do they have to be pressure treated? From a structural standpoint, it seems the 20 penny nails for holding the bails could be nailed directly into the sheeting and joists (albeit the sheeting is not as strong as a 4x4). And from a moisture standpoint, the floor system gets the bales off the concrete, and if any appliances leak, it seems using pressure treated 4x4s on top of a non-treated floor system might not matter? Just looking for alternatives, if there are any. Thanks. Andrew,

A toe-up question, although not related to snow drifts. I’d like to stay away from the use of pressure treated wood in my walls (or use ACQ if necessary). If a straw bale wall is being built over a crawl space that has a standard wood joist floor (2x12s or BCIs) w/ sheeting, do toe ups still need to be added, and do they have to be pressure treated? From a structural standpoint, it seems the 20 penny nails for holding the bails could be nailed directly into the sheeting and joists (albeit the sheeting is not as strong as a 4×4). And from a moisture standpoint, the floor system gets the bales off the concrete, and if any appliances leak, it seems using pressure treated 4x4s on top of a non-treated floor system might not matter? Just looking for alternatives, if there are any. Thanks.

]]> By: David http://www.strawbale.com/winter-climates-and-straw-bale-construction/comment-page-1#comment-1306 David Fri, 22 Feb 2008 18:25:04 +0000 http://www.strawbale.com/winter-climates-and-straw-bale-construction#comment-1306 Living in Alpine Meadows, CA, I often see more than 8' of snow on the ground in the winter, and it often builds up more on the lee side of the house. As far as moisture goes, I would be much more concerned by wind driven rain, than by snow. As soon as the snow is melted by heat from the wall, the snow pulls away, hence very little water is transfered to the wall as the snow melts. A much more likely issues of moisture effecting walls from snow would be water dripping off the roof as the snow melts and splashes on the walls. Gutters are problematic in areas with heavy snowloads. Living in Alpine Meadows, CA, I often see more than 8′ of snow on the ground in the winter, and it often builds up more on the lee side of the house. As far as moisture goes, I would be much more concerned by wind driven rain, than by snow. As soon as the snow is melted by heat from the wall, the snow pulls away, hence very little water is transfered to the wall as the snow melts. A much more likely issues of moisture effecting walls from snow would be water dripping off the roof as the snow melts and splashes on the walls. Gutters are problematic in areas with heavy snowloads.

]]> By: Billy http://www.strawbale.com/winter-climates-and-straw-bale-construction/comment-page-1#comment-1212 Billy Tue, 12 Feb 2008 02:17:54 +0000 http://www.strawbale.com/winter-climates-and-straw-bale-construction#comment-1212 If you are building with straw and using natural plasters in snow country, you should have at least 30" overhangs. We have 40" of snow this winter and it does get close to the wall. I will shovel a path under the overhang to walk and keep the melting snow off my walls. Design with a foundation 0f 12" height above grade If you are building with straw and using natural plasters in snow country, you should have at least 30″ overhangs. We have 40″ of snow this winter and it does get close to the wall. I will shovel a path under the overhang to walk and keep the melting snow off my walls. Design with a foundation 0f 12″ height above grade

]]> By: Andrew http://www.strawbale.com/winter-climates-and-straw-bale-construction/comment-page-1#comment-1017 Andrew Fri, 18 Jan 2008 06:48:32 +0000 http://www.strawbale.com/winter-climates-and-straw-bale-construction#comment-1017 James. Absolutely! You are totally correct. The only reason there is loose straw in the pony wall is that we had just finished baling when I took the picture. I would NEVER LEAVE LOOSE STRAW in the area under the pony wall for the risk of fire. Thanks for pointing that out for everyone. That is very important. James. Absolutely! You are totally correct. The only reason there is loose straw in the pony wall is that we had just finished baling when I took the picture. I would NEVER LEAVE LOOSE STRAW in the area under the pony wall for the risk of fire. Thanks for pointing that out for everyone. That is very important.

]]> By: James McNitt http://www.strawbale.com/winter-climates-and-straw-bale-construction/comment-page-1#comment-1011 James McNitt Thu, 17 Jan 2008 09:24:55 +0000 http://www.strawbale.com/winter-climates-and-straw-bale-construction#comment-1011 In the above picture inside the 'pony' wall there is straw on the floor. Isn't that a great fire hazard - especially in there? In the above picture inside the ‘pony’ wall there is straw on the floor. Isn’t that a great fire hazard – especially in there?

]]> By: Andrew http://www.strawbale.com/winter-climates-and-straw-bale-construction/comment-page-1#comment-1004 Andrew Wed, 16 Jan 2008 15:57:13 +0000 http://www.strawbale.com/winter-climates-and-straw-bale-construction#comment-1004 The problem with the stucco, brick, etc... is that it is not actually waterproof enough to stop the inflow of water from melting drifts. If you make it more waterproof so that it can handle that inflow, then you run the risk of damaging your bales by trapping moisture in the walls. The pony wall is a happy medium which provides other advantages as well, as discussed. Andrew The problem with the stucco, brick, etc… is that it is not actually waterproof enough to stop the inflow of water from melting drifts. If you make it more waterproof so that it can handle that inflow, then you run the risk of damaging your bales by trapping moisture in the walls. The pony wall is a happy medium which provides other advantages as well, as discussed.

Andrew

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